Milan & Lake Como

Exploring the Central Shores of Lago Maggiore: Verbania, Pallanza and Intra | Episode 3 of 5

Welcome back to the heart of Lago Maggiore, where Italian elegance meets lakeside serenity. In this episode of the Immersion Travel Italy Podcast, we explore the central shores, the graceful towns of Verbania, Pallanza, and Intra, where gardens, villas, and daily life blend with color and calm.

This is where Lago Maggiore feels truly Italian. The air carries the scent of magnolia and espresso, ferries glide gently across the water, and the rhythm of the day slows to something beautifully unhurried.

Join me, Katerina Ferrara, as we stroll along lakefront promenades, explore the world-famous Villa Taranto Botanical Gardens and experience the living poetry of a region that captures Italy’s effortless grace.


🌸 Pallanza: Where Gardens Meet the Lake

If Verbania is the city, Pallanza is its soul. With pastel villas, palm-lined promenades, and mountain views that shimmer above the water, it feels like a painting that has come to life.

Just beyond the town center lies one of Europe’s most magnificent botanical treasures, Villa Taranto, a 20-hectare garden created by Captain Neil Boyd McEacharn, a Scottish visionary who fell in love with this landscape in the 1920s.

🌿 Villa Taranto Botanical Gardens

In 1931, McEacharn transformed the property into a living masterpiece of more than 20,000 plant varieties from five continents. Tulips, azaleas, camellias, wisteria, dahlias, and magnolias bloom in perfect harmony, while lotus ponds and reflective pools invite quiet moments of peace.

Visitors often describe Villa Taranto as more than a garden. It feels like a sanctuary. Early morning or late afternoon visits reveal its most magical side, when light softens over the terraces and fountains shimmer in gold.

Each spring, the Tulip Week (Settimana del Tulipano) fills the park with color, while summer brings the Dahlia Exhibition (Mostra delle Dalie), one of the largest of its kind in Europe.

After exploring, pause at the Garden Café for a cappuccino or a slice of torta di nocciole, the soft hazelnut cake typical of Piedmont. The gift shop sells seeds and bulbs from the estate, a perfect keepsake for garden lovers.


🏛️ Pallanza’s Lakeside Charm

Beyond the gardens, Pallanza’s historic center invites discovery. Cobblestone alleys, flowered balconies, and sunlit piazzas lead you to the Church of San Leonardo, whose 16th-century bell tower and faded frescoes tell centuries of devotion.

Evenings here are timeless. Locals gather for the passeggiata, the Italian evening stroll, as the lake glows with sunset and the lights of Isola Madre twinkle in the distance.

For dinner, try Osteria degli Specchi, overlooking the lake. The risotto with mountain herbs or grilled lake fish pairs beautifully with a glass of Ghemme DOCG from Piedmont. Or dine at Ristorante Milano, where you can enjoy fine cuisine and views that stretch across the water.

Stay overnight at the Grand Hotel Majestic, an elegant Belle Époque property with its own private pier and lakeside gardens. Morning swims and sunset aperitivos on the terrace make it a dream retreat.


🏙️ Intra: The Working Heart of Verbania

If Pallanza whispers of elegance, Intra hums with life. Once a center of trade and craftsmanship, this town remains the beating heart of Verbania, alive with ferry crossings, café chatter, and the fragrance of freshly baked bread.

The Piazza San Vittore, anchored by its 18th-century basilica, is the perfect place to begin. On Saturday mornings, the streets come alive with one of Lago Maggiore’s largest markets, overflowing with local cheese, honey, olives, produc,e and flowers.

Stroll the Passeggiata della Beata Giovannina, a scenic lakeside walk shaded by plane trees, where locals gather in the evenings for gelato and conversation as the sky turns pink over the Alps.

For a taste of local life, stop at Trattoria Concordia or La Tavernetta, both loved by residents for their authentic dishes. Try polenta concia, rich with mountain cheese and butter, or tapulone, a slow-cooked beef stew that warms the soul.

If you prefer something lighter, visit Osteria degli Specchi again for lake perch with lemon and herbs, or relax at Caffè Maggiore, where mornings stretch over cappuccinos and quiet conversation.

Stay at Hotel San Gottardo, steps from the ferry, or Il Chiostro, a beautifully restored monastery with peaceful courtyards tucked behind ancient walls.


🌺 Villa Taranto: A Garden of Dreams

To truly understand Verbania’s beauty, you must experience Villa Taranto in full bloom.

McEacharn’s vision was to unite nature and artistry, creating harmony between design and the natural world. Today, his dream lives on, inspiring travelers and gardeners from across the globe.

The gardens flow with color through every season. In spring, tulips and azaleas carpet the paths. In summer, lotus flowers and dahlias take center stage. Autumn brings gold and crimson reflections across the water.

Climb to the Upper Path for one of the most unforgettable views in Italy, the blue expanse of Lago Maggiore framed by terraces and mountains fading into the horizon. It is a scene that embodies the lake’s spirit, timeless and serene.


🍝 Flavors of Verbania

Dining here is a celebration of both land and lake. Expect delicate risottos, fresh fish, and robust wines from the surrounding hills.

In Pallanza, Osteria degli Specchi is known for its risotto al Merlot and trout with herbs and lemon.
In Intra, Trattoria Concordia, and La Tavernetta serve hearty local favorites that reflect Piedmont’s rustic traditions.
For dessert, visit Pasticceria Giudici, where you can sample hazelnut pastries, fruit tarts, and the unique gelato alla camelia, flavored with camellia petals as a tribute to the region’s gardens.


🏨 Where to Stay

  • Grand Hotel Majestic (Pallanza) offers classic lakeside elegance and views that feel endless.
  • Hotel San Gottardo (Intra) is centrally located near the ferry and markets.
  • Il Chiostro (Intra) provides a quiet retreat within a historic monastery.

Each area offers a different experience, from Pallanza’s refined calm to Intra’s vibrant energy and Villa Taranto’s botanical peace.


🌸 Best Time to Visit

The ideal time to visit Verbania is from April through June and again from September through early October. Spring fills the lake with color, summer brings music and open-air dining, and autumn bathes the hillsides in soft golden light. Even winter offers quiet charm, when locals reclaim the piazzas and travelers can enjoy the lake’s peaceful beauty.


The Central Soul of Lago Maggiore

From Pallanza’s elegant promenades to Intra’s bustling markets, Verbania represents the very essence of Lago Maggiore. It is a place where beauty is balanced by simplicity, where nature becomes art, and time seems to hold its breath.

Here, the lake reveals its central soul, graceful and calm, inviting you to slow down, reflect, and savor the moment.


🎧 Listen to the full Lago Maggiore Series on the Immersion Travel Italy Podcast on Spotify, Apple, or YouTube.
For itineraries, travel stories, and photos from this episode, visit www.katerinaferrara.com/blog.

📚 Explore my Ultimate Festival and Travel Guide Series, including Sicily, Puglia, Rome and Beyond, and Venice and the Veneto, with new editions for Milan and Lombardy and The Italian Lakes coming soon.

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